Archive for August, 2012

Sauce: A Review by a Culinary Philistine

I may have a primitive understanding of the concept of “artisan pizza,” but unless Sauce was in fact founded by hipsters looking to name their establishment ironically, I’m perplexed. It may say “Sauce” on the sign, but I saw not a drop of it featured in our meal. More on that in a moment.

The North-Phoenix location which I visited during lunch hours was was clean, the atmosphere was genuinely inviting, the staff friendly. I tried my first bruschetta here, and according to the online recipe I referenced while my wife was in the restroom, they did a good job; it was prepared to textbook specifications. Not the most pragmatic of appetizers, though: lacking a bonding agent to make the cubed mozzarella adhere to the shingle on which it is served, each bite ensures a quick burst of falling debris.

The selection in their wine bar (the presence of which completes the double entendre of the chain restaurant’s name) is ample and varied, though I personally chose to go with a glass of the 2012 lemon-lime.

Regarding the main course:

Perhaps I’ve grown to have scewed expectations of pizza due to a lifetime’s exposure to the type of pizza usually served by a suited mascot. Nonetheless, when I think of “pizza crust,” words like “crunch,” “shard,” and “air pocket” do not come to mind. I do appreciate the authenticity added by the woodfire grill, but it has its drawbacks. In place of the thin layer of flour typically coating the bottom of a pizza for non-stick purposes, this preparation method tends to leave traces of charcoal-like deposits on the bottom of each slice. Due to this, an absent-minded scratch of an errant itch below the eye left my wife looking like Ke$ha. And, again, there was no sauce!

It looks like the restaurant is making the food it intends to make, so, if you’re into this sort of thing, it’s great. I’d be more than willing to join friends there in the future, but I don’t see myself actively seeking it out anytime soon.